East Eats West

Malacca, a colonial spice-trading town

Malacca in Malaysia has long spice-trading history that goes back to is founding in the 14^th century by a fugitive Sumatran prince. It was invaded by the Portuguese in 1511 who were followed out by the Dutch and eventually the British. Like Georgetown, Fort Cochin and Singapore, Malacca still has a lot to show from its 450 years of colonial rule. In 2008 it was awarded UNESCO world heritage status and there are some efforts of protecting and restoring witnesses of the past. Do not miss to do a tour of the town on a ridiculously colorful rickshaw and try the local Nyonya cuisine.

Spot the million dollar cottage industry

Can you spot the multi-million-dollar industry in this picture? And have you ever fancied eating a bird's nest? For centuries Chinese royalty have relied on eating the salvia from swifts, collected from their nests (hence the name), for its assumed health properties. Those nests used to fetch a very high price as the collection was very cumbersome. Today the high price has remained, what has changed is the collection. Ingenious Asians have figured out how to attract swifts through electronic sounds. Nowadays they position loudspeakers in apartments with small windows. The sound proves to be irresistible for the birds and they start nesting in the apartments (shown in the picture). According to a local source in Malacca, where this picture was taken, one apartment can generate revenues of USD 150'000 a year or higher. No wonder that the apartments are heavily guarded. The booming trade in bird's nests has even led to the formation of various trade associations.

Staying in a Georgetown shophouse

The new kid on the block in historic Georgetown, Malaysia. The Australian-owned boutique-style hotel expertly fuses old Chinese shophouses dating from the 1920s with contemporary interior design. There are two locations right in the heart of UNESCO protected Georgetown on the Penang Island. The hotel is run by ever friendly staff that makes you feel right at home. Do not miss to sip a coffee or taste a homemade cake in the Kopi Cine restaurant and café. Website: http://www.straitscollection.com/Restaurants.htm

Another Asian property bubble in the making

In the aftermath of the Asian property crisis in 1997 many unfinished buildings dotted the cities like Bangkok or Kuala Lumpur. Upon visiting Kuala Lumpur and Penang in Malaysia I found signs for a similar property boom in the making. Every high-raisers are being erected and eager buyers are snatching up condominiums. Everyone I talked to told me about the steady raise in property values and the friend they have who got rich with buying and selling properties. It is obviously a sure bet! What many do not realize is that the market prices are often set by property developers who also limit supply. That does not deter parents putting down the down-payment for condominiums for their children. For the longest time the required down-payment was only ten percent, recently having gone up to 20%. Apparently the government thinks things have gotten out of hand. It is enforcing new restrictions like minimum holding periods and minimum down-payments. But with lots of cheap cash at hand, buyers and banks are eager to drive the property market further up.

 

Highway from Kuala Lumpur to Penang, Malaysia

Picture: Malaysian highway from Kuala Lumpur to Penang. 

 Roads in Kuala Lumpur are a nightmare and drivers routinely get lost. However, as soon as one leave the city north the highways are a pure bliss! I particularly liked the highway rest areas with their wonderful food offerings! 

PS: No comparison to other highways in South-East Asia. Thinking about Javanese roads still make my hair stand up!

Highway food stalls in Malaysia are among the best I came across, worldwide! 

 

Re-emerging crafts at Armenian street, George Town

Picture: A silver lotus leaf from Jonathan Yun on Armenian Street, Penang.

George Town on Penang Island remains one of my favorite destinations in South-East Asia. With its old shop-houses, narrow alleys and street-hawkers George Town feels like the old Asia. More and more foreigners nowadays buy run-down shop-houses and refurbish them into jewels. Armenian street with The Straits Collection, a collection of houses/apartments for rent and shops, is a good example for such re-modeling with a Western touch. Armenian street also hosts several galleries that sell art from local painters, photographers and Malaysian handicrafts. I was intrigued by the silver jewelry from Jonathan Yun. He shares a shop at 88 Armenian Street, 10200 Penang, just around the corner from the Straits Collection (http://www.straitscollection.com.my/). 

  

Colonial times in Penang

Picture: Living room of one of the E&O suites. 

Truly outstanding hotels make you jump with joy upon entering, as the new Park Hyatt Hotel in Shanghai does. Another such hotel is the legendary Eastern & Oriental Hotel in George Town, Penang. It was founded in 1885 and gently renovated so that it has the same vintage feel like the Raffles Hotel in Singapore. The rooms are all lofty with high ceilings, wooden floors, classic furnitures and a massive bathroom. Should you like to wake up to a wonderful sunrise and a gentle seabreeze, I suggest you choose a room facing the sea. But mind you, the E&O is a good hotel but lacks the perfectionism and contemporary feel of a Park Hyatt or a Four Seasons. But exactly there remains the charm of this grand old lady of the East! Hotel website: www.e-o-hotel.com  

 
 

Vietnamese beef pho in Kuala Lumpur

Picture: Brings back fond memories of Hanoi, beef pho! 

Kuala Lumpur has a staggering choice of Asian food: Malaysian steamboat (a do-it-yourself soup), the roti chanai bread, Chinese Dim Sum (dumplings) or the local variety Laksa noodle soup. One of the best restaurants in town is the Vietnamese Sao Nam restaurant, off Arabian street and Bukit Bintang. The northern Vietnamese beef noodle (beef pho) is extraordinary! 

http://www.saonam.com.my/

  
 

No frills hotel at Kuala Lumpur budget airport

Picture: Air-conditioning costs extra and space is rare at Tune Hotel, LCCT.

The ever growing AirAsia budget airline has expanded into budget hotels with its new hotel at the Kuala Lumpur Budget airport. For less than 30 USD a night I got a small room with shower and air-condition (that costs extra). The bed was reasonably big and the bathroom tiny. The downside of the hotel is the noisy air-con and it already shows signs of wear-and-tear, shortly after opening. PS: Never mind the cockroaches. 

Make a booking at the Tune Hotel's website: http://www.tunehotels.com/

   

 

Another Chinese lantern maker in Malacca

After waiting a mixup, heart problems, two trips in vain over two years I finally got my handmade traditional lantern from the last remaining lantern maker in Georgetown, Penang. During my search one reader of my blog pointed out to me another Chinese lantern maker in Melaka, Malaysia. He makes beautiful lanterns in a similar style as the one in Georgetown. Should you ever visit Melaka, pay him a visit and pay me a lantern! Here is his address: 

Mr. Ang, phone 06-3151032

No. 1, Jalan 4, Taman Nirwana, Batang Tiga, 75200 Melaka

Malaysia