East Eats West: Traveling in Malaysia

Salang on Tioman Island, Malaysia - September 9-11, 2005, 31.-33.day

Tioman is the biggest island on the East Coast of Malaysia. We were on Salang, a tiny beach resort geared towards divers. Like all small islands it is affected by the strange forces of seclusion from nearly everything, remoteness from society and dominated by the rhythm of the sea. For example: Our bungalow was very poorly built and the construction workers seemed to have stubbornly refused to use right angles or a water scale. Whatever they could not use in construction is now scattered around the property to make housing for big leguans and attract the monkeys; the seafood is as fresh as poorly cooked (or burned); the island is affected by sand flies and the feeling of being stuck on an island slowly got me. It is this sense of being at mercy of external transport and this limitation to the freedom of movement that is annoying. On Tioman most of the guest houses seem to be run by mute and unfriendly Chinese who excel in being passive, quiet or in making grunting noises. Having pestered about the islands and its uninspiring inhabitants, I have to admit that the island is beautifully situated, the water is clear and fresh and the beach is full of colourful fish.

I realized again how I dislike islands because the general lack in aspiration. Even though all the locals depend on tourism, there is little effort being felt to deliver good service. I got the feeling they just are used to getting tourists and just believe, it will stay like that forever. Infrastructure is poor and service quality even worse. Being on an islands also means being exposed to the weather, including strong monsoon winds. It means being far away from stimulating influences and competition is replaced by destiny or fatalism (or the weather). Islands always give me the feeling that a natural catastrophe is just lurking around the corner.

Malacca, Malaysia - September 12, 2005, 34.day

After being just a short-while in Malaysia it feels much more developed, organised and clean. Prices are a higher but services tend to be better. Traffic is safe, drivers pay attention and the infrastructure is alright. People are less pushy than in Indonesia and one gets truthful and undistorted advice. Most people can speak a bit of English. It is Malaysia’s challenging goal to become fully developed by the year 2020. Its Prime Minister just embarked on a marketing tour through Europe calling on investors to place funds in Malaysia. The government started initiatives to end corruption and strengthen the financial system, at least this is what they say.

On the 12th we are in the ancient town of Malacca with its long history. It became an important trade port in the 15th century when the Chinese Eunuch Zheng He (or Hu Zheng, as I called him in a former blog) landed in Malacca and offered protection against the Thais in the name of the son of the sun (the Chinese emperor). It developed into an active trading post switching hands forcefully from the Portuguese to the Dutch. During the French revolution Holland experienced its own revolutionary movement at home and the king had to flee to London. Through this the Dutch colonies were left on their own. Some of the Dutch colonies decided to side with the revolutionary French side, like Batavia (Java/Indonesia), others like Malacca with the English. In the second world-war Malacca, like most of South-East Asia, fell briefly into Japanese hands for four years (the other colonial forces on average lasted 150 years). At the end of the second world-war the Japanese surrendered and gave Malacca and Malaysia back to the English. In order to retain power while facing a growing independence movement, the English armed the Malaysia Communist Party which turned eventually against the British. The aftermath was that the communists created problems well into the 1970s. In 1957 after a strong rally of the independent movement Malaysia finally became independent.

So Malacca still has an old town that talks about the flair of passed times. Actually the ancient Dutch, English and Portuguese buildings give the town its charm. And this is why tourists like the city: because of its European heritage that is still manifest in brick and stones. The little China town adds to the charm. Actually in leaving the few remaining ancient buildings standing, Malacca has discovered the value of age and did not completely submit to the force of modernisation, as it is popular across Asia.

Malacca gives also its name to the Streets of Malacca, the busiest waterway in Asia, connecting China with India. The Straits of Malacca are also famous for its pirate activity. The governments of Indonesia, Singapore, Thailand and Malaysia finally are joining forces and resources to combat piracy. They invest in better surveillance and heavier patrolling.

Malacca today has quite a few interesting museums including the Museum of Democracy, the Muslim Museum, the History Museum and the Museum of Enduring Beauty. The museums are surprisingly well set up and even have English descriptions, which is rare in South-East Asia. I spent a couple of hours in a few of them and thoroughly enjoyed them.

Malaysia with its 80mio. inhabitants is a democratic federation which is headed by a king with considerable power (currently a sultan). Its state religion is the Islam. Malaysia is also the country of active racial discrimination. The Malay Muslim majority is favoured in politics and education in order to keep the Chinese minority, who controls business, at bay. This policy was adopted after fatal racial clashes in 1967 between Malay and Chinese. Malaysia is also one of the few Muslim countries fully embracing economic development and therefore adopting Western values of market economy, free trade and monetary ambitions. It is a laboratory for the fusion of free markets, capitalism, consumerism and Islamic values. So far it looks promising and peaceful.

The most beautiful trishaw in Malacca - September 13, 2005, 35.day

Today I strolled through charming and dazzling China Town in Malacca. By change I bumped into the head designer and head of maintenance of the Malacca Trishaw Association. He explained to me in detail the construction of the marvellous trishaws consisting of a vintage bicycle and a sidecar. The lighting only of the last year winner of the annual beauty contest costs over 1’000$. The Trishaw comes with a loud boom-box that creates acoustic pollution. Especially at night this particular trishaw never fails to attract attention. I had a city tour at 8pm so I got the full pleasure of the magnificent lighting. Check out the pictures!

Islam Malaysian style - September 13, 2005, 35.day

In Malacca I also visited the Islamic Museum which had a very brief summary of the tenets of Islam. Here they are: Allah created human beings with lust and desires so that they are different than angels. He also gave humans a mind so they are different than animals. In order to become a Muslim one has to say the syahadah (a phrase stating that one believes in Allah and his prophet Mohammed) wholeheartedly and honestly. Islam means total submission to Allah by doing good deeds to Him. Every Muslim has to obey the six tenets of Faith: The believe in Allah, angels, prophets, the holy book, doomsday and fate. The tenets of Islam entail five things: The uttering of the syadahah, praying five times a day, paying the tithes, fasting in the month of Ramadan and performing the Haj (visit to the Kasbah in Mecca).

The museum also graphically displayed the ancient and gruelling punishments for adultery, false evidence and stealing (not practised anymore). Malaysia’s court is an Islamic one using Sariah law. But to what extent extremism is taught today in Islamic schools was not explained. Some local Chinese I spoke to and who grew up with Malays feel that Islamic teachings tend to be extreme by nature.

On the role of women and the possible conflicts with democracy the museum is unfortunately mute. It also remains silent on the more specific aspects of Islam governance, modern Islamic law and how it is affecting society. The museum left me in a state of uncertainty and confusion.

Democracy and racism in Malaysia - September 14, 2005, 36.day

This morning I took a stroll through the newly developed area of Malacca who is situated on reclaimed land. The buildings which include a hospital, a mall, a hotel and smaller shops belong to Chinese investors from Singapore. There I met a Chinese investor who looks after property development. Most of the buildings are empty and where built in 1996, before the Asian crisis in 1997. This development area can be representative for whole of Malaysia. Because after the end of the cold-war the USA stopped pouring money into Malaysia (they were afraid of a communist appraising and armed Malaysia). After the US funds had stopped the Asian economic crisis hit the region and since then, Malaysia never really recovered. The prime minister is currently courting fund managers world-wide to invest more in Malaysia. But in order to understand the prospects of Malaysia, we have to know more about the political system, which is unique.

After racial tensions between Malays and Chinese in 1963 and 1967, where many people including were killed, the state adopted a racial discrimination policy. Nowadays in each Malay’s passport it is marked the person is Malay (Moslem), Chinese (Buddhist or Taoist), Indian (Hindu) or others. Like in countries across Asia the Chinese control the business and the funds, which create fears on the side of the Malays, who consider themselves as the original inhabitants of Malaysia. Malays fear that the Chinese might take over their country. It is the government’s policy to actively promote Malays in education, politics and business. For example each Chinese company must give 40% of its share to Malay partners, for free (so called sleeping directors). The effect of this policy is that many Chinese have left for the USA and Australia, taking away huge funds and business acumen.

Another way of breaking the Chinese dominance in business is the policy of the Malaysian government to encourage high numbers of children for Malay families. They try to outnumber the Chinese and control them this way. The ratio of Malays to Chinese is constantly growing (over 70:30).

With the big shift in US foreign policy from Communist bashing to terrorist out-stamping, Malaysia like Indonesia looks not in the best place for economic growth. If Malays will tilt towards Islamic and racial extremism or a moderate Islam is unclear at the moment. At least the current Prime Minister Badawi promotes a newer, more moderate form of Islam (him being partially Chinese).

So from the investor’s perspective I would first look at the activities and freedom of the Chinese business community in the respective country. Secondly I would check the inflow of foreign direct investment and if foreign countries specially support the local government and economy. Thirdly I would look at the state of the financial markets and the government’s investment policy.

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia - September 15, 2005, 37.day

Kuala Lumpur with its 1.4mio. inhabitants is a sprawling city. With just a few historic buildings and no real town planning, it is slowly extending to all sides. The effects of the Asian crisis in the end of the 90ies can still be seen in abandoned, skeletal buildings with the cranes, frozen for an uncertain time, beside. Traffic is dense but it can boast a modern Monorail line and a few efficient over-ground trains. The city is littered with shopping malls and even more hotels; most of them intimidating big and towering. Being in a city adds to the price tags and we have to look out for our budget.