East Eats West

Future and Fortune Telling for 2006 (by the Economist)

I am currently reading the Economist's The World in 2006 and it is once again brilliant. If you want to get insights what will shape the world in 2006, how the US, Japanese and German economies will do, what will happen to the global housing price bubble or what obstacles Mr. Bush will face in Iraq, read it. And no, I am unfortunately not (yet) paid by the Economist, just a very loyal reader.

The nice effect of travelling is that I have so much time for reading and watching news programs on TV. I guess I have never been so well informed about the world as here in remote Laos (thanks to Internet and satellite TV).

The Dangers of Traveling II

Parental guidance: Parents, do not read this!

I just checked the Swiss governments comments on the situation in Laos:

• Several undefined bomb attacks in Viengtiane
• In certain provinces violent upraisings
• Several no-foreigners-welcome areas in the country
• UXO everywhere (unexploded ordinance/mines)
• Criminality is increasing
• Severe accidents with speed boats
• Only basic medical care

Well then, send me a bullet proof vest for Christmas...

Read more about the dangers of Laos here (in German)

Travelblog Nirvana

Are you planning to go travelling? Are you interested what other travellers have experienced? Do you need ideas for your itinerary or are you just feeling like packing up and hitting the road? Check out this website that hosts the travelblogs of hundreds of travellers: Travelblog

The Dangers of Traveling

Often I hear friends and my parents say: Be careful in this and this country. Then I ask them of what exactly I have to be careful of. Normally I get answers like bombs, terrorists, kidnappings, drugs, HIV, bird flu and the lot. These all happen in South-East Asian countries but unlikely to foreigner (with the exception of Bali bombings right after we left). But let me assure you: the single most dangerous thing for foreigners in South-East Asia is traffic. When I spent New Year in Bangkok in 2002/03 there were over 3’000 traffic deaths in one night. Or for example here in Vientiane: in one month there were over 24’000 recorded traffic accidents out of a population of less than 400’000 with several people dead and dozens in hospital. The reason is a small economical boom that makes people better off. And the Laotian like everywhere else quickly turn-in their bicycles and bikes for more convenient cars. Popular are big Toyota Landcruiser and Mercedes (called Benz). But more than 50% of the drivers do not bother to get a license or training at all and traffic lights are indicative. So off they go with their new toy. Here in Vientiane I came even across a new super powerful Mercedes AMG C32 and 500 SL. Now imagine a 50 years old pop with his new toy roaming the streets without training. The effect is similar as when I was a kid and drove bumper scooters at the Luna Park, with no seat belts on.

Big Blogger is watching me

On the surface globalization seems to assimilate countries and economies across the world. But globalization as for more freedom for businesss and workers is not equal more personal freedom, freedom of speech or the rule of law. I described in my previous blog entry about how the rule of law is different in Thailand for example. Many authoritarian governments are very aware of the danger of the freedom of speech. According to the Vientiane Times (December the 15th) a blogger was arrested and questioned in the Philippines because he posted an altered picture of the president online. He was released after he apologized. Cyberspace gets watched in most Asian countries closely. According to a recent Newsweek article China is much more advanced. It not only controls website access (like Thailand), detains unruly bloggers and controls emails, it has an army of officials, police officers and cyber police that post propaganda messages and blogs in order to influence opinions online (my blog is blocked in China). So all of you who caution me about my travel to less safe countries might better enjoy my blog as long its author roams the world freely (okay, I am exaggerating a bit).

The unruly Law in South-East Asia

Alex just read a book (Welcome in Hell) about an Irish chap called Colin Martin who got apparently wrongfully imprisoned for murder for eight years in Thailand, even though the only witness died and the body never turned up (he claims to have been tortured to sign a statement). Like other books from former Western prisoner it gives an insight into South-East Asian societies’ belief systems. According. This is the reason why prisoners are very badly treated in all South-East Asian countries (and why the CIA likes to send prisoners to Thailand for further interrogation). Correction is not the aim but pure punishment. There is no shared belief in equal rights or the rule of law. Additionally in countries were law enforcement personnel earns not enough to make a living the whole juridical system is set-up to extort money out of people, innocent or not. For example if you drive a car in Bangkok you might get stopped by the police and made to pay a (modest) sum for traffic law violation. Not because you just broke a rule but because it is impossible to drive in Bangkok without breaking a rule at least sometime. So you better pay right away because it is cheaper: as soon as a superior is involved he also wants money. If you get for example arrested by the police you can pay for your immediate release (caution). It is about 7’000$ if you are (wrongfully or rightfully) accused for murder, according to the Irish chap. And trials are slowed down if one does not pay the lawyer and attorney for speeding it up. The system is setup to reap maximum money out of accused person. Only money and relationship might help you to stay out of trouble in the long-run. South-East Asian countries firmly rest on the belief that everyone’s rank and position in society is naturally given and should not be questioned, similar to the European feudal system in the medieval ages. Even in countries like Vietnam and Laos which had communist revolutions, it never helped to create a culture of equal opportunities like the French revolution in Europe did. Most citizen still very much belief in authority and a strict hierarchical division of society. If you get accused of wrongdoings it is not about who is right or wrong but who has more power or money. Not that this is the case in all the times but unfortunately very often.

Bye bye Bangkok Hustle and welcome Lao Snooze

We left the Bangkok of the year 2548 (according to Thai calendar) north by night rain to Nong Klay, the border town to Laos. The ten hours train ride was comfortable and quiet as well as on time. We took the new and shining Bangkok Subway to the train station which positively surprised us with its efficiency and cleanliness. We felt like a splurge and upgraded our tickets to first-class. The clerk at the counter asked me how many male and how many female travelers and then said the first compartment is the “no worries” compartment. I must have looked puzzled because he then said: “don’t worry, man or woman, don’t worry!” and I understand that this was a mixed gender compartment, exactly right for Goga and Alex. Nong Klay was a very quiet border station and we were welcomed by the ubiquitous Tuk-Tuk drivers. We bargained for the price and at a point the driver admitted that the price was expensive because we are rich. Well, that did it for Goga and we walked of in order to find shortly after a cheaper Tuk-Tuk for the 1.5 kilometers to the border. The Thai custom was quick and efficient where as the entry to Laos cost us almost two hours.

We then took an old Toyota Crown taxi to the 25 kilometers away capital of Laos, Vientiane. On the road to Vientiane we saw sparkling new factories for Tobacco, Yamaha motorcycles and a Pepsi bottle plant. Vientiane, Laos’ very quiet capital on the Mekong river and right on the Thai border, reminded me very much of Siem Reap (Cambodia). Only that the capital is even quieter and feels smaller than Siem Reap. Even the US embassy looks for once almost peaceful and not as threatening.The riverside is taken up by small food stalls offering basic food on the omnipresent Chinese-made plastic chairs. After 9pm the town literally closes down and the lights go off. Laos is struggling as much as Cambodia in keeping pace with modernization. Its Communist regime is trying to make life for its 5.5 million citizens a bit more comfortable. What Vientiane lacks in excitement, exoticness or temptation it makes up for it with a much laid back lifestyle. It is a good place to have a rest and catch up on some sleep deficit from Bangkok. And the pleasant daytime temperatures of 25° and a bit chilly 15° during night makes the place an oasis in hot South-East Asia.

On our second day in Vientiane we got our Visa extend (sorry, please pay in USD) and roamed around this very quiet capital. There is still a strong French influence with many French restaurants (we ate excellent Mekong fish with spaghetti) and even French wine shops. Similar to Cambodia NGOs like Handicap International or MAG (British Mine Clearing) are visible in the streets through their parked white Toyota Landcruisers. I visited the Laos Monument that was apparently built with US cement meant for constructing an airport. Unfortunately even this unconventional approach did not help much and the monument is still unfinished and in a poor state. But due to its lack of ambition and pretense it is somewhat charming.

 

Relax to the max at Potalai Spa in Bangkok

If you ever feel like escaping the sheer speed and noise of Bangkok, have a complete body rejuvenation at the splendid Potalai Spa in the outskirts of Bangkok. In three hours you get washed, soaked, shrubbed, oiled and massage with the traditional Thai smile and service. It is not by chance that Thailand is world leader n wellness and spas. Check out their website.

The World's Highest Gig

Last night I listened to a concert in Vientiane, Laos, of Billy Page, an English singer and songwriter, who just came back from Nepal playing at the world's highest concert at 5540m. He and his fellow musicians did it for a children charity in Nepal in order to help orphans and combat child prostitution. Check out their website.

Off to Laos and mostly offline

I am off to Laos for two weeks and we will spend Christmas and New Year there. Laos is famous for a very quiet and low technology lifestyle and its charming people. So no news for the next weeks from me. I wish all of you a Merry Chrstimas and a Happy New Year. More from EastEatsWest next year!

  Santa Claus and Christmas in Hong Kong