East Eats West

Back in magical Luang Prabang, Laos

Picture: Luang Prabang Night Market.

After being on the road for over eight months in Asia I slowly became jaded and immune to all the many stimulations of Asia and I slowly became a bit numb. But suddenly while flying the small turboprop machine from Bangkok to Luang Prabang a feeling of pure excitement and joy got hold of me while tremendous cumulus clouds passed my window and the plane dipped a few times due to turbulences. And then, when I saw the mighty Mekong from above again, a feeling of absolute bliss entered my blood stream. I knew I was soon to be back in the magical former Royal Laotian Capital of Luang Prabang. Walking from the plane to the little airport, where my sister Peng was awaiting me, I felt like returning home to a magical place protected by a spell. I felt that I immediately changed to the slow-pace and peaceful rhythm of Laos and its ever friendly inhabitants. I felt the magic of the cumulus clouds, the magic of the lush green hills surrounding this tiny village and the magic of hundreds of intrinsically carved temples. I am sure, if Hergé had to find inspiration for Tin-Tin in Asie, Luang Prabang would have been the archetypical Asian city full of wonders and mysteries. In Luang Prabang I even welcome and love the night, the darkness and the resulting quietness when the blanket of the night hushes all voices and one still feels safe and welcomed. It slowly dawns on me that I have become an “egg” as the Chinese say: white on the outside and yellow (Asian) in the inside. Maybe it is true what my Asian friends tell me: I have become an Asian on the inside.

For more pictures of Luang Prabang, click here.

How to travel easily and joyfully in South-East Asia

Picture: Bottom left you can see the Bangkok Airport Golf Cours.

I have been on the road in Asia for over eight months now and I am again and again impressed of the easiness of traveling in South-East Asia: transport and accommodation are available for all budgets and tastes in every country. Bangkok is clearly the region’s hub and all major and minor destinations can be reached from Bangkok airport (although it is one of the most appalling airport in the world; luckily the new one will open soon). Bangkok airport is also the only one know to me which has a golf course in-between its two runways. If you plan to travel to South-East Asia my best advice is to fly into Bangkok, book a room in advance on www.asiarooms.com and get organized from in Bangkok. Actually while traveling in Asia my only real concern was the weather with seasons ranging from hot to humid and wet to cold in the North. For getting ideas about where to go I can recommend the basic www.LonelyPlanet.com which or the more posh www.i-escape.com. The Lonely Planet offers accommodation recommendations, basic information about weather, currency and places to see. For booking plane tickets this can be either down online (see airline list below) or across Bangkok in travel agencies. The Bangkok Khao Sarn Backpacker Road is also a prime spot for booking flights, tours, and bus and train tickets as well as getting Visa. Among the recent improvements in Asia in the travel industry is that it is easier to get Visas right upon arrival in places like Laos and Cambodia whereas Visas for China, India and Vietnam are better acquired before entering the respective countries. With the emergence of Asia budget airlines (see links below) it is now easy to book online and fly cheaply across South-East Asia with fares ranging as low as 40$ for a one-way flight in Thailand or 130$ from Bangkok to Singapore and back (with Thai Air Asia for example). With guesthouses, youth hostels to luxury and boutique hotels across the regions, accommodation is always available and some of the world’s best hotels, like the Four Seasons in Bali or the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Bangkok, can be found in Asia. Booking in advance only pays off for sought-after locations during high-season or for using discount-rates while booking online through www.asiarooms.com. My best advice is to leave enough leeway for spontaneous changes in plans and not to rush too quickly through the many sights in Asia. Staying a few days in one place allows tuning in into the local vibe and atmosphere. Transport, accommodation and food are always ample in Asia and booking in advance mostly not necessary. Just buy a ticket to Bangkok and go on exploring in wonderful Asia!

A few recommended websites:

General information for travellers: www.LonelyPlanet.com

For inspiration: www.i-escape.com, www.tripadvisor.com

For the best hotels in Asia: http://www.smarttravelasia.com/TopHotels/index.htm

Hotel and Guesthouse bookings at a discount: www.AsiaRooms.com

Budget and boutique airways in Asia: www.AirAsia.com, www.NokAir.com, www.TigerAirways.com, www.fly12go.com , www.bangkokair.com

Three whooshing hotels in Thailand’s second biggest city Chiang Mai

Picture: The Four Seasons Hotel in Chiang Mai   

Like many Thais I had to lay low after the splishing-and-splashing during the Songkran festival which got me sick. With a headache and a cough I barely ventured out of my room upon arrival in Chiang Mai and did not visit any sights like the magnificent Doi Suthep Temple on the mountain. Nevertheless I found a bit of energy to have lunch at the serene and tranquil Four Seasons Hotel Chiang Mai which is set among rice-paddies and where the lush mountain housing Doi Suthep is the hotel’s back-drop. The serene and exquisitely set hotel is about 45 minutes outside of Chiang Mai in the direction of Doi Suthep Mountain. The hotel’s design blends perfectly into the lush landscape and the rooms are stylish and comfortable. But the real attraction of the five-star hotel is the incredible green and natural garden with rice-paddies and grassing water buffalos. Nevertheless for 450$ a night the bungalows clearly miss a plunge pool and more privacy on the porch like the Four Seasons Sayan and Jimbaran Bay in Bali are providing.

Clearly the most atmospheric and inspirational new hotel in Chiang Mai is the Rachamankha Hotel with its traditional Lanna-style architecture and discreet setting. The owner, who is also the designer and architect, built the exquisite hotel from scratch and it is hard to believe that the hotel is new as authentic patina can be found across the compound, being responsibly for the fairy-tale feel of the place. Each room is individually decorated with antique furniture and all modern amenities can be found including a serene pool and big bath-tubs in the rooms. Last but not least the location in the Old City of Chiang Mai makes the hotel convenient for sightseeing and shopping or hopping over to the Oasis Spa for a Thai Massage. Depending on the season and the online-promotion a Superior Room goes for as low as 138$ a night; a bargain compared to the no-discount Four Seasons.

From the same designer as the Rachamankha Hotel is the Tamarind Village Hotel that comes in the same style but is clearly less exclusive and lower priced. Tamarind Village is also built in the typical Thai Lanna-Style and offers traditionally-decorated rooms for a tad cheaper than Rachamankha. Where Rachamankha clearly outshines the Tamarind Village is for pure style and the touch and feel of ancient and exotic Asia. The Rachamankha’s layout is also more cosy and discreet creating the impression of being the only guest in a private house. From all the hotels I saw in Chiang Mai the Rachamankha Hotel clearly offers the best value and let’s customers feel still being in ancient and exotic Asia.

The Antique House Restaurant in Chiang Mai

A stone-throw away from the Chiang Mai River one can found a beautiful and ancient Teak-house by the name of Antique House. The house was built in 1870 and it is almost 130 years old, completely made out of Teak wood. The culturally protected house with an extensive porch is home to a fabulous Thai-restaurant that at night transforms into a secret-garden lit up by a myriad of lights and the air fills with music from guitar players. The menu is extensive with local Northern Thai specialties and all-time Thai classics: from the spicy chicken salad to the fried peanut with mushrooms and shrimps and spicy fruit salad, we enjoyed the food and atmosphere both times we ate there. And as additional benefit the staff in the bathroom not only handed me a hot towel but also massaged my neck, shoulders and back while I was washing my hands! Onn, my Thai friend, assured me that this is quite normal in Thailand.

Picture: David getting a massage in the restaurant's toilet, for free!

School is off in Luang Prabang!

Nothing beats the end of a hard day at school, also in Luang Prabang!

Here are more pictures of Laos.

The heavenly rice-paddies of Luang Prabang, Laos

Where the sky touches the earth and the clouds celebrate with a slow dance - Luang Prabang, Laos

Thailand Hotels, Resorts and Travel Information

Here is a blog about Thailand's hotels and resorts loaded with ideas where to soak, dine, get romantic and pampered or chill in the country of the gentle smile. Even though some of the entries seem to come right out of a sales pamphlet and the offerings are clearly on the plush side, it is worthwhile for finding inspiration! Check it out here

The Bangkok Luxury Hotel mile – Sathorn Road

Picture: View from the Vertigo Bar on Banyan Tree Hotel.

The experience of Bangkok varies greatly with the area one stays in and what hotel one chooses: the crowded and easy-going atmosphere of Khao Sarn road could not be further away from the red-light sleaze on lower Sukhumvit road with its run-down and cheesy titty-central Nana Plaza. Besides cramped low budget back-packers hang-outs and the low-budget love-market of Nana, there is another more cosmopolitan and uplifting part of Bangkok: the area around Silom Road and Lumpini Park which is also home to several embassies and big financial buildings. The open-wide space around green Lumpini Park with its wide alleys and greenery surrounding the buildings allows for, at least mentally, air to breathe and people can turn away their eyes from the horrors of the daily Bangkok traffic. Angling from Lumpini Park Sathorn Road starts and on one mile the discerning traveler can find an upscale oasis of hotels starting with the classical and cozy Shukothai Hotel, the Banyan Tree Hotel for the upwardly mobile urban-dwellers and the Metropolitan as the new kid on the block oozing urban sleekness.

The Sukhothai Hotel with its low-raise buildings and contemporary Thai style of buildings offers a place to stay and eat with the warmth and smile of Thailand. Its award-winning restaurants always surprise with new menus and one can feel relieved from the hectic life of Bangkok. For 250$ one gets a decent sized room with a Thai touch and modern amenities. The most pleasant aspect of the hotel, besides its Thai architecture, is the quietness and easy-feeling of the hotel due to the setback location from the main road that lets one forget the noisy street-life of Bangkok.

The impressive Banyan Tree Hotel is housed in a 61 storey building that is towering above the neighborhood and one of the tallest in Bangkok. The hotel offers the discreet luxury of a world-class hotel with a set of tempting restaurants but somewhat smallish and cramped suites starting at 300$. But the really outstanding feature of the hotel is its Vertigo roof-top bar and restaurant that hovering 200metres above Bangkok. There is only one word for the restaurant and bar: breath-taking; without any walls or roofs blocking the view the sprawling city by the name of Bangkok can be savored. The restaurant and bar sits on the very roof of the skyscraper and there is only half-a-meter between the railing and the abyss; definitely not compliant with Swiss safety rules and only for the strong-hearted! The restaurant and bar is also the vocal point for the local business and international expat community and appropriate attire is a required.

Last but not least the urban and chic Metropolitan Hotel next to the Banyan Tree hotel is a must for the trendy and fashionable urban traveler. The modern and minimalist style of the hotel attracts discerning globetrotters who discriminate against the steadily increasing plethora of luxury travelers. At 260$ a night for a business room (slightly bigger than the standard room) the room does not fully justify the rate; but then again, the style is immaculate. On top of sleek accommodation the hotel has a cutting-edge restaurant by the name of Cy’an that is frequented by local celebrities and foreigners. Although the food is mouth-watering it feels over-priced and the courgettes with pesto were an unpleasant finish of an otherwise brilliant meal. Sathorn Road is the place to go for travelers with a bigger budget and do not only want a bed to crash on after lengthy business meetings.

And if you ask me for the best value and feel: go for the Sukhothai!

When design meets comfort with style in shoes – New cool shoes from J.shoes and Camper

Due to practical and financial reasons EastEatsWest sticks to a basic wardrobe and wisely avoids fashion (and I admit that I was and never will be trendy). For example I do not own jeans or white socks. You might wonder why I am telling you this and the reason is simple: because of an Achilles heel inflammation inflicted by my daily-worn leather shoes I had to abandon my trusted and timeless Timberland boots and look for some new and comfortable footwear. What I found are two exciting shoe-makers that combine style with comfort and design with identity and I learned that it is hard in Bangkok to find shoes of the size US 10.

J.shoes from England produce casual shoes with an edge; from extravagant textiles to crocodile skins and new interpretations with a loving care to detail, these sneakers never fail to impress and reminded me a lot of the cutting-edge Japanese shoes I saw in Tokyo and Hiroshima. With stylish new combinations of upper-materials, applications and soles J.shoes take old classics to a new level and surprise with innovative designs. For example they combine the shape of a golfer-shoe with a super soft suede-leather and bright orange inner-linings. That is a statement while you are teeing!

If you want comfort combined with natural fabrics, straight-forward design and gadgets like anti-static soles look no longer as Camper has the stylish answer for your needs. Camper from Spain, who not only manufactures shoes but also run a hotel and produce healthy food, is a Spanish family company run by a long-standing shoemaker family. The shoes became renowned by Japanese buying them during the Olympics in Spain and consequently spreading the news across Asia. Ever since then Camper shoes are looking east for inspirations and new clients (they have a shop in Hong Kong) which is reflected in their newest ad-campaign with Chinese from all walks of life posing with Camper shoes. Camper produces casual shoes of a bewildering range and materials: from innovative three-component slippers to stylish boots and comfortable sneakers and from super light-weight travel shoes to heavy and sturdy work boots, Camper shoes have a foot-solution ready. The Camper icon shoe are the bowling-shoes inspired sneakers in a new contemporary interpretations and colors that are now the footwear of urban-dwellers in Asia and Europe alike. Style is nothing if it cannot be worn (maybe not applicable to women though). Therefore Camper focuses on comfortable and practical foot-wear that keeps their owner’s feet happy and healthy. It will be interesting to see where the Asian inspiration will take the Spanish shoe maker (besides having their shoes manufactured in China) and if the can become a truly global shoe-brand.

PS: For tips regarding shoe care, Camper offers an easy walk-through of the shoe-care one-o-one.